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Winter is defined by cold, sometimes extremely cold temperatures, plus snow, ice, rain, slush, and, of course, more snow. The Midwest experienced wind chills of minus 50 degrees F last winter. Is your vehicle ready for another polar vortex? Here’s 10 tips to winterize your vehicle for Mother Nature’s fury. Let’s start where the rubber meets the road.
1. Tires
Whether you are driving a nearly new Mercedes-Benz or a nearly worn out Ford F, +0.74% Fairmont, there’s only one thing that connects a vehicle to the road: tires. David Bennett, manager of repair systems at the AAA, said that’s one of the first areas to inspect for winter.
“Do you have plenty of tread on your tires? That’s the lifeblood of the car that will give you traction on the road. If the tread is worn down, you are going to see diminished performance, stopping distances will be longer on slippery roads, ice, snow,” Bennett said. Resistance to hydroplaning will be greatly reduced.
To determine whether there is enough tread on your tires, take a penny and insert it into one of the grooves between the treads. Lincoln’s head needs to be facing you and his head should be upside down. Do this in 10-15 areas of the tire. If you see all of Lincoln’s head, the tread depth is less than 2/32 of an inch, meaning the tire is dangerous, must be replaced and is illegal to use. If a portion of Lincoln’s head is not visible, your tire is ok.
2. Tire pressure
A severely deflated tire can easily result in a blowout if a pothole is hit, leaving you stranded on the highway for hours in the bitter cold or worse, can contribute to the cause of an accident on a slippery road. Frequently check the air pressure in each tire. Each 10-degree drop in outside temperature can mean a 1-pound loss in air pressure. A sticker on the vehicle’s door jam or trunk lid, as well as info in the owner’s manual, provides the recommended air pressure. The best time to check tires is when the car has been sitting for 30 minutes or more.
3. Battery
Engines are more difficult to start in cold weather. Did you have a battery issue this past summer, maybe once or twice a jump start was needed? Have the battery checked. Remember, batteries hate cold weather. Chemical reactions within the battery that make electricity slow down as the temperature drops, making it difficult for it to produce max power. The ideal outside temperature for maximum battery output is about 80 degrees F. Unfortunately, few of us live in such places as San Diego or Honolulu.
4. Change oil
Lighter weight oil is as important to starting an engine in cold weather as is a strong battery. Cold weather thickens engine oil, making it difficult for parts to turn and the engine to start, putting a strain on the starter and battery. That’s why a strong battery is necessary — more juice than usual is needed in the winter to crank the engine. Check the owner’s manual to determine the proper engine oil weight. The basic rule is use thinner oil for cold weather, thicker in hot weather.
5. Cooling system
Coolant, sometimes called antifreeze, is a liquid that absorbs engine heat and dissipates that energy through the radiator. It cools the engine in the winter and summer, preventing overheating and extensive, expensive damage to the engine. The coolant also is formulated to resist freezing.
If there is insufficient coolant in the system serious engine damage may occur. Frequently check the amount of coolant in the radiator’s reservoir tank, a small plastic, clear container located near the radiator. A line on the side of the tank shows the proper level. If coolant is needed do not unscrew the radiator cap and add coolant into the radiator. Hot liquid could gush up, burning your hands or face. An additional word of warning: Make sure you purchased the correct coolant for your engine.
6. Coolant
Always check the owner’s manual to determine when the system should be flushed and what type of coolant should be used. There are six different types of coolant, each a different color. If the wrong coolant is used the cooling system and/or engine could be damaged. When adding coolant check the coolant bottle to determine how many parts of water should be added to one part of coolant. Do you want protection to 0 degrees F, minus 20 degrees, something lower? Read the directions on the side of the coolant bottle for the correct ratio. When in doubt head to a car dealership or reputable garage.
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If you smell antifreeze but do not see a leak, coolant may be escaping from a clamp or a hose may have failed that you cannot see. Check for a puddle under your vehicle.
7. Belts, hoses
Wires and belts need to be checked for cracks and wear; hoses for leaks, and cables for lubrication. Cold temperatures weaken these items — hoses can become brittle and fail. Check and replace what’s necessary before you are stranded on the highway.
8. All- or 4-wheel drive
Both systems offer improved snow traction. Check the owner’s manual to determine whether or when maintenance is required. Also, check the manual to determine how to activate the 4-wheel drive system if it has manual controls. You probably haven’t used 4-wheel drive since last winter so a quick look at the owner’s manual might prevent expensive damage to the system. For example, must the vehicle be in Park or Neutral before 4-wheel drive can be activated?
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Some all- and 4-wheel drive crossovers have a locking differential that equalizes power to the wheels on same axle. The advantage is better traction in snow when the differential is locked. Check the owner’s manual to determine whether the differential can be manually locked (activated) while the vehicle is in Drive.
9. Brakes
With snow, ice, water and slush on the highway, the car’s brakes need to be in top operating condition. Do you hear a metal-against-metal noise when the brakes are applied? Is the car pulling to the left or right when the brakes are applied? Does the brake pedal pulsate under normal driving when the brakes are applied and the anti-lock brake system is not activated? Head to a dealer or an automotive service center for repairs.
“If your brakes pads are thin, they are worn down, your stopping distance will take longer” and could result in an accident, AAA’s Bennett said. “And that is regardless if it is winter or summer.”
10. Change wiper blades, refill windshield fluid
Snow, slush and salt can quickly build up on the windshield, blinding a driver if the wiper blades are worn out and not a drop of windshield fluid remains. How many times have you been driving alongside a tractor trailer and the deluge from the truck’s tires hitting the sloshy payment blinded your view?
Replace the wipers if they leave streaks of liquid on the windshield. Check the windshield fluid tank frequently. Make sure the liquid selected will not freeze when the temperature hits zero or minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Carry a gallon of windshield fluid so you can quickly refill the container under the hood.
This winter prepare for the worst and hope for the best. These tips will make winter driving less stressful.
This story originally ran on KBB.com.
