Weekend Sip: A Brooklyn distillery is making bourbon in maple syrup barrels

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The bottle

Widow Jane Decadence Bourbon, $79.99

The back story

We associate bourbon with Kentucky, the Bluegrass State home to many a distillery that produces the classic American whiskey. But bourbon can be produced anywhere across the U.S. Even in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Yes, the New York City borough, which has acquired a reputation in recent years as a foodie and hipster haven, is increasingly being recognized for its spirits brands. Among them is Widow Jane, which was founded in 2012 and has surged in popularity of late, with company officials saying sales grew by 50% in the past year.

Widow Jane distills some of its own bourbon, using a proprietary variety of corn, called Baby Jane, to produce it. (By definition, the grain mix or “mash bill” that goes into bourbon must be composed of at least 51% corn.) But the brand also sources ultra-aged bourbon from other distilleries. Such is the case with Decadence, a newer release that is a blend of bourbons, aged at least 10 years, from Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana.

What makes Decadence distinctive and, well, decadent, is the final step: The blended product is aged an extra period of time (or “finished”) in New York using barrels that previously contained maple syrup — specifically, Crown Maple Syrup , an artisanal brand from upstate New York. “This is bourbon with serious depth, structure and complexity, but with an amazing creamy rich finish,” touts Lisa Wicker, president and head distiller of Widow Jane.

What we think about it

When you hear maple and bourbon, you presume a degree of syrupy sweetness. But think of the maple flavoring in Decadence as more of a faint echo. If anything, the bourbon is a robust one, with full-bodied notes of cinnamon and spice, followed by a hint of maple (more like brown sugar) at the end. In all, quite tasty and satisfying.

How to enjoy it

We wouldn’t mess with this bourbon — it deserves to be sipped neat or maybe just a small bit of water. But the Widow Jane team says it works well in select cocktails. In particular, it suggests using it in a hot toddy during this chilly time of year.